Machine Sewn (Lock Stitch) vs Hand Stitched?
What is the difference between machine sewing and manual hand stitching (Saddle Stitching)?
One thread vs. two threads
When you use a machine, that sewing line uses two separate threads that lock around each other in what is known as a "Machine Lock Stitch".
A hand-stitched line uses a single thread with needles on both ends. The thread runs back and forth on either side of the leather in what is called a "Saddle Stitch”
Difference in Construction
Technically speaking, the hand-stitched piece that uses the "saddle stitch" provides a stronger and more durable construction than the machine sewn piece that uses the "locking stitch".
A locking stitch by a sewing machine has two threads running the length of the material on opposite sides, if one thread were to snap at a single point, the entire thread could unravel along that side of the material thereby allowing the material to separate.
However in a hand-stitched piece, should the thread snap at a single point, it could not easily unravel the length of the item since it’s passing on both sides of the leather. More importantly, it's easier to repair the line of stitching.
Difference in Aesthetics
Saddle stitch results in an elegant line of slightly angled stitches when used with a particular set of tools. Decisions like stitches per inch, size and type of thread, and how we set the holes (e.g. pricking iron, diamond chisel) all play a role in the design of a piece.
Machine lock stitches usually look pretty straight on the top and the bottom side would be a usually visibly thinner thread to complete the lock stitch.
Which type of sewing does February 29 use?
As they all say, we can’t have the best of both worlds; so we use both methods depending on our designs!
Machine sewing with threads that doesn’t decay or snap easily and quality craftsmanship can produce good and yet affordable leather goods. Modern sewing machines help to reduce crafting manpower hours which build up a significant part of costing in quality leather goods. Definitely very suitable for pragmatic customers that appreciate value of money goods.
Hand stitching; a true mark of artisanal excellence would be part of our range of premium leather goods. This basic yet critical foundation of premium leather goods would be the standard for fine leather connoisseurs.
